That’s correct, your rabbit can be litter trained! 
Rabbits are clean and habitual by nature, choosing only one or few places to deposit their urine and droppings.
The ease of litter training rabbits vary with each individual, and may be affected by the following factors:
- age (adult rabbits are said to learn faster, but I've managed to litter train baby rabbits within 1-2 weeks time)
- spaying/neutering (this reduces your rabbit’s hormones and decreases the urge for territorial markings)
- presence of other rabbits (which are not bonded to your rabbit)
- size of your rabbit’s initial space
- changes in your rabbit’s routine or surroundings
How To Begin Litter Training
- initially, keep your rabbit in a smaller area. The area size may be gradually increased once your rabbit’s litter habits improve
- place the litter box in one corner of your rabbit’s cage or playpen. If your rabbit has already chosen a corner as its ‘toilet’, place the litter box in that corner.
- put hay/food at one end of the litter box. Rabbits usually eat and answer nature’s call at the same time
- if your rabbit pees or poops outside of its litter box, wipe the pee with tissue and/or pick up the droppings, and place the tissue and/or droppings in its litter box
- if your rabbit pees outside of its litter box, wipe the spot with vinegar to mask the scent of its pee, to prevent your rabbit from peeing there again. Vinegar is also very effective in removing calcium residue left behind from a rabbit’s pee
- when you let your rabbit out for exercise, or if your rabbit is not caged, begin with a small exercise space. Leave your rabbit’s cage door open so that it can go back in to use its litter box
- as you increase your rabbit’s space, you may need to place other litter boxes around the area especially if the area is large. Observe your rabbit to see which litter box it uses. As your rabbit learns, it will start using fewer litter boxes. Remove those which are no longer used
- keep your rabbit off furniture and beds until it has developed good litter habits
The Litter Box
- the litter box should be waterproof and large enough for your rabbit to sit comfortably in, with enough space to place hay/food at one end of the box
- if your rabbit lives in a cage, make sure that after placing the litter box inside, there is still enough room in the cage for your rabbit to stretch out
- if your rabbit roams freely around the house, you may prefer to use a bigger litter box in which you can place your rabbit’s water bowl, food bowl and hay all inside
- senior or disabled rabbits would prefer boxes with a lowered entrance (easier to hop in)
- placing a wire mesh (coated with plastic so as not to hurt your rabbit’s feet) over/into the litter box will make your set-up cleaner as your rabbit will not be able to dig/throw litter from its box, and your rabbit’s feet will not come into contact with its pee and droppings. Make sure the grids on the wire mesh are large enough for your rabbit’s dropping to fall through and the mesh must not have sharp edges which may hurt your rabbit
- clean the litter box regularly. Your rabbit may refuse to use its litter box if it becomes too dirty
- use warm water and white vinegar to disinfect and remove urine stains
Example of a DIY small litter box (the L-shaped plastic piece is the urine guard):
Example of a DIY large litter box:
Which Litter to Use?
- the best litters are organic and are plant fiber, recycled paper, hardwood, or citrus based. Some brands to look for are Woody Pet, Breeder's Celect, Healthy Pet and Carefresh
- alternatively, you may simply line the litter box with newspaper
DO NOT USE softwood, corncob, clay, and clumping litters:
- aromatic softwood litters made from pine or cedar emit gasses that cause liver and respiratory tract damage
- dust from clay litter can irritate your rabbit's nose and eyes when inhaled. These may also form clumps in the rabbit's lungs and make the rabbit more vulnerable to respiratory problems
- clumping or corncob litter can form a solid mass in the rabbit's digestive system if ingested. Even if your rabbit does not appear to be eating the litter, it is better to err on the side of caution. Your rabbit may ingest litter particles which are clinging to its fur when grooming itself
Possible Problems
- spraying, or depositing urine and droppings outside of the litter box (this may occur once your rabbit reaches puberty at around 6 months of age. Your rabbit is becoming more territorial and starts marking its territory with urine and droppings. Spaying/neutering is an effective means of eliminating this behaviour)
- urinating over the edge of the litter box (a covered litter box, or a litter box with higher sides, can solve this problem. Alternatively, purchase or make your own ‘urine guard’ to place around the back of the litter box or cage)
- your rabbit insists on using another corner as its ‘toilet’ (if your rabbit has made its choice, you will have to oblige it. Place the litter box in your rabbit’s selected corner, and this may involve rearranging the cage or your furniture)
- dribbling over the cage/floor (dribbling usually indicates a bladder infection. Bring your rabbit to a rabbit-savvy vet immediately. However, if the medication prescribed by your vet does not eliminate the dribbling, check for other factors which may cause your rabbit to become stressed or to feel insecure enough to start marking its territory)
REMEMBER, DO NOT punish or hit your rabbit whenever it has an ‘accident’. Your rabbit may not understand why it is being punished and instead, may associate being near you with being punished. This could lead to your rabbit avoiding any contact with you. Use positive reinforcement instead, such as rewarding your rabbit with a treat each time it jumps into its litter box and when it uses its litter box correctly. You can tell when your rabbit is peeing - it will sit still, its nose will stop twitching or the twitching slows down significantly, and its bum & tail will be lifted up.